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Na szlaku Orlich Gniazd – Ogrodzieniec

Opublikowano: Luty 24, 2014

8 komentarzy

Ogrodzieniec - zamek, podzamcze

Poprzez malowniczą wyżynę, ciągnącą się od Krakowa aż po Częstochowę, wiedzie nietypowy szlak ­­– szlak Orlich Gniazd. Jest on swoistym systemem budowli obronnych, które od XIV do XVI w. powstawały na obszarze Jury. Pierwsze z nich zbudowano jeszcze za czasów panowania Kazimierza Wielkiego. Stanowiły one oparcie dla królewskiego wojska: miały strzec Krakowa, czyli ówczesnej stolicy, ochraniać granice państwa i zabezpieczać ważniejsze szlaki handlowe. Zamki i strażnice lokowane były na wzgórzach (stąd oryginalna nazwa), dzięki czemu trudno je było zdobyć. Zniszczeń dokonały dopiero najazdy szwedzkie w XVII w. i obie wojny światowe.

Choć po niektórych budowlach do dziś pozostały już tylko niewielkie fragmenty (a czasem tylko fundamenty), wędrówka jurajskim szlakiem pozwala odkryć na nowo bogatą historię naszego państwa.

Do najciekawszych i najważniejszych Orlich Gniazd zalicza się zamki w Olsztynie, Mirowie, Ogrodzieńcu, Bobolicach, Pieskowej Skale i Ojcowie.

Inspirująca legenda

Mnie osobiście od zawsze najbardziej interesował Ogrodzieniec (a właściwie zamek rycerski „Ogrodzieniec” na Podzamczu). Moja ciekawość rozbudzona została jeszcze w dzieciństwie, kiedy to z zapartym tchem zaczytywałem się w polskich podaniach i legendach. Od momentu, gdy po raz pierwszy usłyszałem o upiorze Czarnego Psa, błąkającym się nocami po ogrodzienieckich ruinach, zawsze chciałem zobaczyć to miejsce na własne oczy :). Kiedy więc nadarzyła się okazja, nie zastanawiałem się ani chwili.

Zamek ten jest jednym z najbardziej okazałych na terenie Jury (jego kubatura wynosi aż 32000 m3). Wzniesiono go jeszcze w XIV w. na trzonie skał wapiennych Góry Zamkowej. Podobno w latach swej świetności, przepychem i bogactwem dorównywał krakowskiemu Wawelowi.

Ruiny zamku Ogrodzieniec na Podzamczu są jednymi z największych i najpiękniej położonych wśród skalnych ostańców. Otoczone są 400-metrowym murem, ściśle połączonym z wapiennymi skałkami.

Dojazd do zamku

Dojazd do zamku nie sprawił nam większego problemu,  jest dobrze oznakowany, a poza tym już z daleka widać górującą nad okolicą fortecę. Trochę gorzej może wyglądać znalezienie miejsca parkingowego, zwłaszcza w sezonie (na szczęście wybrałem się tam końcem października…). Choć wprost do zamku prowadzi droga, nie ma możliwości dojazdu do bram samej warowni  – samochód należy zostawić gdzieś niżej.

Bilety wstępu

Wejście na teren zamku wiąże się z koniecznością nabycia biletu wstępu. Koszt „podstawowego” biletu to 9,00 zł (bilet uprawnia do zwiedzania zamku, muzeum, wystawy i sali tortur). Jeśli jednak dysponuje się większą ilością czasu, namawiam do zakupu biletu, uprawniającego równocześnie do zwiedzenia grodu na górze Birów (koszt: 13,00 zł). Można jeszcze pokusić się o zakup tzw. biletu złotego (zwłaszcza, gdy na wycieczkę wybieramy się z dziećmi!), w ramach którego, oprócz zamku i grodu, możemy też odwiedzić Park Miniatur Ogrodzieniec, znajdujący się nieopodal ruin (koszt biletu: 25,00 zł). W Parku tym zgromadzono makiety legendarnych zamków i warowni Jury, a także rekonstrukcje średniowiecznych  maszyn oblężniczych.

Ogrodzieniec zamek - dziedziniecwidok z wieży zamku OgrodzieńcaZamek w Ogrodzieńcu

Podzamcze

Po przekroczeniu bramy zamkowej, wkroczyliśmy na rozległy teren podzamcza. Niegdyś miejsce to zapewniało schronienie okolicznej ludności, dziś, zwłaszcza latem, organizowane są tam różne imprezy: inscenizacje bitew, pokazy walk na miecze, turnieje łucznicze, koncerty zespołów celtyckich, pokazy tańców dawnych oraz prezentacje i występy bractw rycerskich.

W Sali Tortur

Zwiedzanie postanowiliśmy rozpocząć od Sali Tortur, zwanej Katownią Warszyckiego (to właśnie upiór kasztelana Stanisława Warszyckiego można spotkać nocą na Podzamczu), znajdującej się w południowej części podzamcza, naprzeciwko wejścia do zamku. W Sali tej zorganizowano wystawę średniowiecznych narzędzi tortur i technik katowskich. W środku znajduje się wiele „ciekawych” machin, m.in. Kołyska Judasza, Hiszpańskie Buty i Łoże Sprawiedliwości.

Dziedziniec pełen bibelotów

Następnie, przestępując po kamiennym moście, udaliśmy się wprost do zamku. Po przekroczeniu bramy zobaczyliśmy średniej wielkości dziedziniec, otoczony murami o nierównych profilach. W czasach świetności dziedziniec otoczony był pięknymi krużgankami, aktualnie są to już tylko ruiny. Mury zamkowe wyrastają jakby ze skał, imponujący efekt psują jedynie znajdujące się tam stoiska z pamiątkami, w których można kupić prawie wszystko: począwszy od breloczków i kubków, a skończywszy na elementach dawnego uzbrojenia (oczywiście we współczesnej, drewniano-plastikowej wersji) oraz  średniowiecznym stroju damy dworu… Cóż, dzieciakom pewnie się tam spodoba. Aaaa, po lewej stronie stoją też dyby, do których każdy może się „przymierzyć” i zrobić sobie (samodzielnie i za darmo) pamiątkową fotkę.

Ogrodzieniec - muzeum torturOgrodzieniec ostańceZamek w Ogrodzieńcu i tereny wokół

Malownicze ruiny

Po prawej stronie dziedzińca znajdują się kręte schody, prowadzące do dawnych zamkowych pomieszczeń – kuchni, sypialni, czy biblioteki. W czasie spaceru po zamkowych komnatach nietrudno wyobrazić sobie jak duża i skomplikowana była cała budowla. Warto wspomnieć też o dwóch wieżach: Kredencerskiej i Skazańców, które są prawdopodobnie największą atrakcją zamku. Z ich poziomu rozpościerają się przepiękne widoki na zamek i okolice pełne ostańców, przedzamcze z Parkiem Miniatur oraz Górę Birów (oddaloną od ogrodzienieckiego zamku o około 2 km), na której zrekonstruowano drewnianą osadę z XIII w.

Średniowieczna ekspozycja

Na koniec zostawiliśmy sobie zwiedzenie niewielkiego muzeum, mieszczącego się w tzw. Lamusie pod Salą Kredencerską oraz galerii w Kurzej Stopie. W muzeum znajdują się makiety ogrodzienieckiego zamku (przedstawiające jego stan w czasach świetności i obecnie), a także eksponaty archeologiczne  z okolicznych wykopalisk oraz fotogramy z planu filmowego Zemsty w reż. A. Wajdy. Można tam również obejrzeć krótki film, obrazujący codzienne życie na zamku od XIV do XVI w. W galerii zaś prezentowana była ciekawa wystawa poświęcona dawnemu życiu dworskiemu oraz  średniowiecznym kobiecym strojom.

Zamek Ogrodzieniec usytuowany jest na najwyższym wzniesieniu Jury Krakowsko-Częstochowskiej, na Górze Zamkowej (zwanej też Górą Janowskiego), wysokiej na 515,5 m.n.p.m. Zbudowany jest z twardego wapienia i dolomitów.

Wśród skalnych ostańców

Po zwiedzeniu zamku postanowiliśmy jeszcze pospacerować. W najbliższej okolicy ruin znajdują się liczne skałki wapienne, które fantastycznie wpisują się w otaczający je krajobraz i sprawiają, że widoki są naprawdę piękne. Jurajskie ostańce  są też niesamowicie atrakcyjne dla miłośników wspinaczki górskiej, dla nas jednak (totalnych amatorów w tej dziedzinie) zupełnie wystarczający byłby park linowy, mieszczący się u stóp ogrodzienieckiego zamku – szkoda tylko, że otwarty jest jedynie do końca wakacji…

Przechadzając się po malowniczych ruinach magnackiego zamku, gdzie tętniąca życiem przyroda oplata leniwie stare mury, odnosi się wrażenie, że czas się zatrzymał. Niesamowity klimat i wyjątkowa atmosfera, panująca w ogrodzienieckiej warowni dają świadectwo o dawnej potędze, ambicjach i burzliwych dziejach Rzeczpospolitej. Miejsce naprawdę warte polecenia!

8 myśli na temat “Na szlaku Orlich Gniazd – Ogrodzieniec”

  1. Jeżeli chodzi o zamki, to polecam zamek Czocha, Książ no i oczywiście Chojnik. Jeżeli jadę na urlop w góry, to zawsze w okolicach zwiedzam zamki, taki nieodłączny rytuał. W Ogrodzieńcu jeszcze nie byłem, ale na pewno się to niedługo zmieni. Pozdrawiam!

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